Decreasing Cable Towel Toppers

After making the first towel toppers I did, I had the idea to make similar ones with cables. I love cables. And I really liked the idea of having a towel topper that had more going on for it.

These start out in a k6, p2 rib pattern which diminishes and cables as the pattern goes on. I also did 2 buttonholes with a wider strap than most patterns use.

These are done in regular, worsted - weight cotton, although you could use any weight and type of yarn. Keep in mind that cotton doesn't have much stretch, so be sure to knit loosely.

Abbreviations Used
k knit
p purl
ssk slip, slip knit
CL3, slip 3 stitches onto cable needle in front of work, knit 3, knit 3 off cable needleCL2, slip 2 stitches onto cable needle in front of work, knit 2, knit 2 off cable needleCL1, slip 1 stitches onto cable needle in front of work, knit 1, knit 1 off cable needle

I used 62 stitches, but as long as the number you cast on is divisible by 8 + 6 it will work.

To start, use a darning needle to create stitches down the middle of the towel. I found the instructions here to be helpful with this.

Rows from there:

1: Pick up stitches2: p6, *k2, p6, repeat from * to end of round
3: k6, *p2, k6, repeat from * to end of round
4: and all even rows - purl all purled stitches and knit all knit stitches as they face you.
5-9: repeat row 3
11: CL3, *p2, CL3, repeat from * to end of round
13-15: k6, *p2,k6, repeat from * to end of round
17: k1, ssk, ssk, k1, *p2, k1, ssk, ssk, k1, repeat from * to end of round
19: CL2, *p2, CL2, repeat from * to end of round
21: k4, *p2, k4, repeat from * to end of round
23: ssk, ssk, *p2, ssk, ssk, repeat from * to end of round
25: CL1, *p2, CL1, repeat from * to end of round
27: k2, *p2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of round
29: ssk, *p, ssk, repeat from * to end of round
31-51: k1,p1 rib
53: k1, p1, k1, cast off 2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, cast off 2, k1, p1, k1
54: p1, k1, p1, cast on 2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, cast on 2, p1, k1, p1
55-66: k1, p1 rib
67: k2tog across
68: k2tog beg & end of row
69: k2tog across
70: cast off remaining stitchesWeave in ends and sew on buttons.

Lion Mane with Ears

My daughter loves to pretend she is a lion. She has an adorable roar and my husband had suggested several times that I should make her a tail and ears to go with it.

I looked all around and couldn't find a set of lion ears that were round like they should be. I also didn't want to make a full hat because I wanted these ears to be wearable in the summer or anytime she wants to pretend she's a lion. So these are designed to be on a headband, although you could attach them to a beanie if you want.

I made these for a kid's sized headband, but these ears could just as easily be attached to an adult-sized headband.

Materials Needed

• Worsted Weight Yarn
• Size 6 knitting needles
  
• Yarn Needle
• Headband

Band
Make 1
This is designed to attach to an existing headband. I used a 3/4 inch wide headband. Adjust the band for a wider or narrower headband.

Cast on 12
Knit in Stockinette until band is just a little longer than headband.

Ears
Make 4

cast on 16

1. Knit in stockinette for 12 rows or 2 inches
2. SSK, K3, SSK, K2, K2tog, K3, K2tog
3. Purl
4. SSK, K1, SSK, K2, K2tog, K1, K2tog
5. Purl
6. SSK, SSK,K2tog, K2tog

Bind Off

Hold 2 ear halves together, wrong sides out. Sew 2 ear halves to each other, turn right side out. Ears should curve a little. I left long yarn tails to use to sew the ears onto the headband.
Attach band to headband and then attach ears. Sew ears on so that they curve slightly.
Cut strips of yarn for mane and attach as for the Lion Tail, working around band, leaving ears free.
I personally did 2 pieces at a time for the mane even though I did 3 at a time for the tail.
Trim if needed, and give to your little lion to help them feel more like roaring!

Lion Tail

I've found a lot of cat tail patterns out there, but never a lion tail. So here is mine. And stay tuned - A Lion Mane with Ears to go with it is coming!

Materials Needed

• Worsted Weight Yarn
• Stuffing
• Size 4 dpns
• Yarn Needle
  
• Something to attach it to

Size
Kids (Adult)

Gauge is not important, although your stitches should be tight enough that the stuffing doesn't show between them.

Worked in the round.

Cast on 20 (25)

Work in stockinette until it is 16" (28") or desired length.

Decrease Rounds
Same for all sizes.
Place marker at beginning of round.

1. K3, k2tog to end of round
   
2. k2,k2tog to end of round
3. k1, k2tog to end of round
   
4. k2tog to end of round
5. weave end through remaining stitches and pull tight.

Tuft
Lions are the only cats who have tufts on the end of their tails.
To make the tuft, cut darker brown yarn 5-7 inches long.

Take 3 pieces of yarn at a time and thread through yarn needle.

Pull yarn through tail once.

Pull yarn back through the same hole. Be sure not to pull through all the way.

This should create a loop on one side and the ends on the other side.

Pull the ends through the loop.

Pull the ends tight.

Repeat this until you have a full tuft at the end of the tail.

Trim tuft to a lion-tuft shape as desired.

Stuff and sew onto pants, fabric with elastic, belt, or i-cord.

Wear and Enjoy!

Twisted Chain Link Fingerless Gloves - Redone

This was my first pattern, so it was a bit sketchy. I recently went through and redid the cable chart, using the knitting chart generator I found here. I also attempted to simplify the pattern as well as taking in a couple of suggestions from a few of the folks on Ravelry who made these.

So - here is the revised/revisited pattern.

I made the first pair of these for my mom for her birthday. I cast on and just made it up as I went. The second pair I made are longer, with an extra repeat in the cable pattern before adding the thumb. I don't have good pictures of them yet.

The cable pattern is fun and simple; an easy one to learn how to do cables without a cable needle.

Materials
appox. 1/2 a skein Caron Simply Soft Eco or equivalent amount other Worsted Weight yarn
Size 7 dpns
Stitch Marker
Waste Yarn or Stitch Holder

Abbreviations Used
k Knit
p Purl
CL1 Slip one stitch to cable needle and hold to front of work, knit one, knit one from cable needle
CR1 Slip on stitch to cable needle and hold to back of work, knit one, knit one from cable needle

Cable Pattern
You can do the cables in the same direction on both mitts, or make them twist in the opposite direction for each mitt. It's not a large change, but can be a way to avoid the second-mitt curse.

Note - Because this is worked in the round, some of the cables cross over to the next row.

Left Cable Pattern

If you click on the picture below, you can get a larger version of the chart.

1. *CR1, p2, repeat from* to end of row
2. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row
3. *k1,CL1,CR1, repeat from* to end of row
4. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
5. *p2, CR1, repeat from* to end of row
6. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
7. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
8. *p2, CR1, repeat from* to end of row
9. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
10. *k1,CR1, CL1, repeat from* to end of row
11. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row
12. *CR1, p2, repeat from* to end of row
13. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row
14. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row

Right Cable Pattern
If you click on the picture below, you can get a larger version of the chart.
1. *CL1, p2, repeat from* to end of row
2. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row
3. *k1,CL1,CR1, repeat from* to end of row
4. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
5. *p2, CR1, repeat from* to end of row
6. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
7. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
8. *p2, CL1, repeat from* to end of row
9. *p2, k2, repeat from* to end of row
10. *k1,CR1, CL1, repeat from* to end of row
11. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row
12. *CL1, p2, repeat from* to end of row
13. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row
14. *k2, p2, repeat from* to end of row

Main Mitt
CO 36
Join in the Round, be careful not to twist.
Use Stitch Holder or Waste Yarn to mark beginning of row
Work 12 rows in p2, k2 ribbing
Work cable pattern once for shorter gloves, twice for longer gloves.

Thumbs
Keep working cable pattern, but add the following at the beginning of rows (before the *):
4. m1, p2, m1
5. m1, p4, m1
6. m1, p6, m1
7. m1, p8, m1
8. m1, p10, m1
9. p12
This should result in a purled thumb that falls into one of the chain holes in the cable pattern.

Finishing Main Mitt
Put 12 extra purled stitches onto waste yarn or stitch holder.
Continue knitting through row 5 in cable pattern.
k2, p2 for 12 rows of ribbing.
Bind off

Finishing Thumbs
Pick up 12 stitches from holder.
Pick up 3 additional stitch on inside of thumb.
P until inside of thumb is 1 inch.
Bind off.

Weave in Ends and you're done!

Tentacle Bag

I designed this bag to be used as a monster cup for the board game Arkham Horror.

A drawstring bag made to look like a bunch of tentacles reaching up and out and knit from the top down (tentacles first). Make a fun addition for your Arkham Horror game, or use it for whatever other tentacular uses you can come up with!

If you would like to make these to sell, it is alright with me, but please consider donating a dollar or two to BoardGameGeek.com if you do.


Yarn Worsted Weight

Needles size 7 dpns (could use circs)

Guage really not important

Directions

Tentacles Make 16

Cast on 4 stitches, join in the round.

1. K1, M1 4 times - total 8 stitches on needles
2. K4, M1 2 times - total 10 stitches on needles

Knit all stitches until tentacle is aprox. 2.5 inches long or desired lenghth.
Cast off 3 stitches.
Place remaining tentacle stitches onto spare needle or scrap yarn.

Main Body
Pick up 7 stitches from first tentacle, repeat with the rest of the tentacles.
When you've picked up all tentacle stitches, join in the round,being careful not to twist.

Work in k5, p2 rib until you have aprox. 6 inches (longer for a larger bag) from where you picked up the tentacles.

*Optional - work in a row of eyelets to make weaving in the ribbon or icord easier later.

Decrease Rounds

1. *K2, K2tog, K1, P2 *repeat to end of row
2. K4, P2 rib
3. *K1, K2tog, K1, P2 *repeat to end of row
4. K3, P2 rib
5. *k1, k2tog, p2 *repeat to end of row
6. K2, P2 rib
7. *K2, P2tog *repeat to end of row
8. K2, P1 rib
9. *K2tog, P1 *repeat to end of row
10. K1, P1 rib
11. K1, *K2tog *repeat to last stitch. Knit last stitch tog with first stitch from the next row. 16 stitches will be left.
12. Knit
13. K2tog to end of row - 8 stitches left
14. Knit
15. K2tog to end of row - 4 stitches left
16. bind off

Finishing
Weave in all ends.
Make an icord or find some ribbon to thread through inside of the purled stitches for the drawstring. I made a 3-stitch i-cord, the regular 4 stitch one seemed to thick.

You can stuff the tentacles and sew them closed if you want. I just left mine open.

Ribbed Towel Toppers

I'm making towel toppers to go with dishcloths for Christmas gifts this year. I've noticed that most of the patterns out there are for garter stitch. I wanted something different. I liked how it turned out, so thought I'd share.

This pattern is for the toppers only. The bottoms are a simple k3, p2 rib.

These start out in a k5, p2 rib pattern which diminishes as the pattern goes on. I also did 2 buttonholes with a wider strap than most patterns use.

Unfortunately, I did the first ones in black, so it is hard to see the rib. I'll try to get some pictures of lighter ones up when I get them done.


These are done in regular, worsted - weight cotton, although you could use any weight and type of yarn (I would highly suggest sticking to cotton though).

I used 61 stitches, but as long as the number you cast on is divisible by 7 + 5 it will work.

To start, use a darning needle to create stitches down the middle of the towel. I found the instructions here to be helpful with this.

Rows from there:

1: Pick up all stitches
2: p5 *k2, p5, repeat from * to end of round
3: k5 *p2, k5, repeat from * to end of round
4: and all following even rows - knit all knit stitches and purl all purled stitches
5: repeat row 3
7: repeat row 3
9: k2, k2tog,k1, *p2, k2, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round
11: k4 *p2, k4, repeat from * to end of round
13: k1, k2tog,k1, *p2, k1, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round
15: k3 *p2, k3, repeat from * to end of round
17: k2tog, k1, *p2, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round
19: k2, *p2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of round
21: k2tog, *p1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round
23-46: k1,p1 rib
47: k1, p1, k1, p1, cast off 2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, cast off 2, k1, p1, k1
48: p1, k1, p1, k1, cast on 2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, cast on 2, k1, p1, k1, p1
49-50: k1, p1 rib
51: k2tog across
52: k2tog beg & end of row
53: k2tog across
54: cast off remaining stitches

Weave in ends and sew on buttons.

Finally! The Last of the Stargate Glyphs!

Sorry this took so long - here are the final 13 Stargate Glyph Charts.

27 - Taurus
28 - Auriga
29 - Eridanus
30 - Orion31 - Canus Minor

32 - Monoceros
33 - Gemini
34 - Hydra

35 - Lynx 36 - Cancer 37 - Sextans 38 - Leo Minor 39 - Leo